Kayaking regulations updated

On the 1st May 2015 amendments were made to the French regulations governing Kayaking on the sea

There is not a huge amount of difference, and in part makes things a little clearer for visitors coming to France sea paddling.

Direct Link to Update

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Une nuit aux Glénan

Mardi 30 août, marée haute à 4h13 à Concarneau. Pour rejoindre les Glénan depuis la Pointe de Mousterlin, l’idéal serait de partir à 5h30 mais comme la navigation de nuit est interdite aux kayaks en France, on partira à 6h45.

Les kayaks sont chargés la veille au soir et le matin, on embarque sous les yeux d’un spectateur qui nous suit avant de partir à son travail grâce à la webcam.

collin michelle 3Merci Ronan pour cette capture d’écran qui montre le lever du jour sur la mer.

Colin Night-1686

Nous laissons les Moutons sur notre droite, ils sont pratiquement à mi-chemin de notre traversée. Plus loin, nous croisons la route de 2 groupes de marsouins, pas loin de 10 individus en tout. Ils nous ignorent complètement.

Après 3 heures de traversée, nous débarquons sur Penfret pour prendre notre thé matinal dont nous a privé notre départ aux aurores.

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Ensuite, ré-embarquement pour une balade entre les îles avec nos traînes. On espère ajouter un maquereau ou deux à notre dîner. Pas de chance, on restera bredouilles. Un avion (Falcon 50 ?) survole l’archipel à basse altitude en décrivant des cercles. On le reverra le lendemain.
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Nous finissons par abandonner la pêche et nous allons à Saint-Nicolas prendre un verre mais il y a beaucoup de monde, les vedettes n’arrêtent pas. On n’a jamais vu autant de touristes et de plaisanciers lors de nos précédentes visites.

Nous regagnons à 18h notre coin de plage pour le bivouac de la nuit.

En débarquant, nous voyons un monsieur venir vers nous d’un pas décidé. C’est sûr, il veut nous parler. M. Cap nous pose plein de questions sur nos balades, notre équipement…, il veut tout savoir car il a un kayak, un Anas Acuta, un beau bateau.

M. Cap et son ami nous aident à porter les bateaux en haut de la plage, on n’en revient pas. C’est vraiment exceptionnel que quelqu’un nous propose un coup de main. Et ça ne s’arrête pas là! Ils nous offrent des prunes Reine-Claude du jardin et pour finir, ils nous donnent 2 tacauds de belle taille pour améliorer notre dîner. Rencontrer des gens d’une telle gentillesse, c’est rare et ça rajoute beaucoup à une balade. Merci beaucoup. On a cuit nos tacauds à la vapeur sur lit d’algues.

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tacauds sur lit d’algues

M. Cap, pour vos trappes de caisson qui se fissurent, je pense que le magasin Bekayak de Brest qui vend aussi en ligne devrait avoir des trappes de remplacement (Valley ou Kayaksport). Pour être sûr d’avoir le bon modèle, le mieux serait de leur téléphoner ou d’aller au magasin.

Et autre chose : votre nom peut se traduire en anglais par “course” mais aussi par “bearing”, on avait oublié de vous donner cette 2è traduction.

m. Cap

Bye bye Mr Cap and his friends

On a eu droit à un magnifique coucher de soleil et à une très belle nuit étoilée une fois de plus. Il n’y a pas à dire, on est gâté! Et comme ça n’est plus la pleine lune, on peut les voir toute la nuit.

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Le lendemain, mercredi 31 août, on embarque à 12h, soit une heure après marée basse à Concarneau. 3h de traversée, belle mer, très peu de vent, les deux derniers kilomètres avec du surf et le vent qui s’est un peu levé juste après notre arrivée.

Colin Les Moutons-9681

 

 

 

 

 

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Une nuit à Chausey.

Pour la préparation, nous nous sommes reportés à l’atlas des courants de marées du SHOM qui utilise Saint-Malo comme port de référence donc les heures de marée indiquées ci-dessous sont les heures de marée de St-Malo.
20160823_131606Nous embarquons à la Cale d’Hacqueville à Granville le mardi 23 août, à 13h30, 2 heures après la pleine mer.

Météo France prévoit Beaufort 5 mais Magic Seaweed (Magic Seaweed) donne Beaufort 4 faiblissant 3 puis 2 de même que YR, site norvégien (Site Meteo Norwegian).

 

Arrivés à la cale nous vérifions l’état de la mer et mesurons le vent. L’anémomètre indique un vent de sud-ouest à 14 noeuds et dans la baie on peut estimer l’état de la mer à 2. (Sea States) ,cependant cette eau agitée est générée par les hauts-fonds qui entourent la baie et le port et on voyait qu’elle était plus calme là où il y avait plus de fond. On decide donc de partir.

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Chausey at 10 Km

On a fait la traversée de 17 km en 2h20, traversée confortable et tranquille. A mi-chemin le vent était tombé et à peine perceptible et on a bénéficié de l’aide du courant. On a débarqué sur Aneret à 15h55 et avons rencontré 4 kayakistes, Florence, Alain, Bertrand et Pascal, qui avaient fait la traversée la veille depuis Donville-les-Bains.

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le groupe de Rennes et Redon2-161059

Comme il était tôt, nous sommes allés sur Grande Ile prendre un verre au bar de la Sirène. Il y avait beaucoup de touristes en attente de leur ferry pour rentrer à Granville. Il faisait très chaud, Météo France avait raison à propos de la canicule.

Après avoir dîné sur la cale nous sommes retournés à Aneret pour y passer la nuit, nous avons monté les bateaux tout en haut de la plage. Aneret a perdu beaucoup de sable ces dernières années et l’érosion est visible. Avec un coefficient de 89 il ne reste pas beaucoup de place à marée haute.

 

Nous avons pris un verre avec le groupe de 4 kayakistes rencontrés plus tôt, avons parlé de nos randonnées et expériences respectives. Nous partageons le même goût des traversées vers les îles, vivre dehors dans un bel environnement. On gardait un œil sur la marée pour être sûrs de pouvoir rejoindre notre bivouac à pieds secs.

 

On s’est endormi sous un superbe ciel étoilé mais dans la nuit la clarté de la lune a atténué la lumières des étoiles.

 

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Our Bivi on the Beach

Au réveil, après le petit déjeuner nous avons chargé les bateaux, les avons portés à l’eau et après avoir souhaité une bonne traversée à Florence, Alain, Bertrand et Pascal, nous avons embarqué à 9h, soit 3h avant la marée haute. Très bonnes conditions, des pointes à 12km/h avec les courants, nous avons effectué la traversée retour en 2h20mn. Un peu de surf à l’arrivée mais rien de méchant, pas beaucoup de monde, nous avons tout rangé et chargé les bateaux en moins d’une heure.

On n’était pas retourné à Chausey depuis plusieurs années, ça a été une balade très agréable et on a été très heureux d’y être retournés.

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Île Houat

Île Houat

The chart section above covers the Bay of Quiberon, it is without doubt one of the best places in Europe to paddle.  The islands demand a visit, and without doubt will remain an unforgettable experience. At this time of year they are at their best, it’s far too early for the tourists.
This was a rather hastily prepared trip, actually decided on the night before ….  all the camping kit was back stored in the house 3 hrs away.
Houat is however close enough to consider as a day trip from either Pointe de Conguel or from Point St Gildas.Port aux moinsA little to the west of St-Gildas is the small fishing harbour Port des Moines, it’s ideally located for setting off to Houat. There are two slips although a little steep, and good parking at the top. Last month I sold the Vito and bought myself a Transit. The major difference was the height. The Vito with kayaks on the roof was a centimetre under 2.4 M.
The Transit with its medium roof starts at 2.4 M and with the kayaks on now is just under 3M.TransitI had to extend the handle of the karitek rack, but once done I can now load single handed. The rack must be 10 years old now, but still in service and working well.

However this new height places me firmly in camper van territory, which is not all good news. This particular part of the edpartment has strict views about campers and over the last few years on the Sarzeau peninsula it has become increasingly difficult to park near to a beach or other launch pointparkingIt is now becoming increasingly common to come across these types of height restrictions.  It is rare to have these height restrictions at the Ports and Harbours because of the obvious commercial activity involving higher vehicles.

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There were signs excluding campervans from the Port but no height restriction.

SortieWe set out on a flat blue sea with brilliant sunshine, it was a good feeling to be paddling in T-shirts again.hazeThe visibility wasn’t so good, we struggled to see the island until we were around 3 miles off, and then quickly found ourselves filling in the detail
beachThe enormous beach was deserted, but further into the summer it will be much different, without doubt early spring is the best time to visit.
grassThe storms earlier in the year have accelerated the erosion around the island, but there is plenty of new grass gaining a new foothold in the sands and dunes

dunesThere is plenty of evidence of just how much damage has been done ….
PicketsHere you can see pickets suspended from their wire in free air, they earlier marked the boundary of the protected zone.
coastThe coast here is magnificent,  with spectacular golden sands

poolWe walked on up the pathway through the dunes looking back down onto the bay

BayAlways plenty to see here ….

gullsThere appeared to be plenty of aimless wandering

footAll too quickly the afternoon passed, it was time to rejoin our kayaks and prepare for the 6.5 mile crossing back
kayaksFinally, back on the mainland we were treated to a rather splendid sunset.

sunset

 

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Ile Dumet

DumetDespite the heavy frosts, the last few days has seen the sun warm up the air to close on two figures  making an afternoon trip particularly appealing.  Ile Dumet lies in the Bay of Quiberon some 4 miles off the French mainland.

 

We chose to leave from Piriac, with ample parking and access to the sea. The beach at the end of Quai de Verdun was our choice at a low tide launch because it is relatively rock free allowing the use of trolleys
dumet chartThis small island is a registered bird sanctuary and now owned by the conservation society ‘Conservatoire du Littoral’

In the summer it gets crowded with all manner of water users, its two beaches always popular. Outside of the summer,  spending time on Dumet alone is always a good experience.untitled-1128The island is 600 meters long and just 200 meters at its widest point, and has two forts. The oldest is Fort de Ré constructed in 1756 by the Duke of Aiguillonvauban (1 of 1)

The larger square fort  was built in the style of military engineer Sébastien Vauban  in 1845. Dumet’s history and the presence of two forts shows  its strategic importance, serving as both protection and early warning for entry to the river Vilaine as well as the French coast.IMG_5588The trees found on the island are quite recent, however they are not doing well on this rather exposed island. Introduced in the early 1950s by Henri Dresch the owner of the island at that time. They have developed into some quite distinctive shapes sculpted by the weather.
Trees Dumert

 

Screen Shot 2013-12-25 at 09.13.04In 1759 the troops stationed on Dumet would have witnessed one of the most important victories of the time for the English Navy.  Admiral Hawke commanded 24 vessels and decisively deafeated Marshall de Conflans at the Battle of Quiberon Bay (called Battle of the Cardinals by the French)

Dumet has seen many such battles and during its history  has been occupied by the Saxons and Vikings as well as the English and the Spanish.

With the sun going down, it was time to return to the mainland.

Mimi kayak Sunset (1 of 1)The setting sun produced a wonderful golden glow on our return to Piriac, another very enjoyable trip.

Mimi Sunset (1 of 1)

 

 

 

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Norway Outdoor Recreation Act

Enjoying the countryside and coast in Norway is defined by Law,

here’s a link to the Norwegian Governments English translation

A couple of extracts…

§ 7. (Landing and mooring boats)

Any person travelling on water has the right to land a boat on a beach in an uncultivated area for a short period of time. It is not permitted to make use of a quay or jetty without the owner’s or user’s permission. Other mooring devices (rings, bolts, etc.) in uncultivated areas may not be used if this has been prohibited by the owner or user. The owner or user may nevertheless not oppose the use of such mooring devices for a short period of time if this can take place without unduly hindering the owner or user.

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§ 9. (Picnicking and camping)

It is not permitted to use sites on cultivated land for picnicking, sunbathing, staying overnight or the like without the permission of the owner or user.

In uncultivated areas, it is not permitted to use sites for purposes such as mentioned in the preceding paragraph if this unduly hinders or inconveniences others. Picnicking and camping must not take place if this may cause significant damage to young forest or to regenerating forest. A tent must not be pitched so close to an inhabited house (cabin) that it disturbs the occupants, and in any case no closer than 150 metres. However, the rules on the distance from habitation do not apply in an area that has been specifically designated for camping.

Camping or another form of stay is not permitted for more than two days at a time without the permission of the owner or user. Permission for a longer stay is nevertheless not required in mountain areas or in areas distant from habitation, unless it must be expected that the stay may cause significant damage or inconvenience.

Immediately before and during the hunting season for wild reindeer, the Ministry may prohibit or regulate camping that may cause inconvenience for such hunting.

Camping and other forms of access must take place at the person’s own risk as regards damage that animals may cause to persons, tents or other property.

Without doubt, there is great willingness to help in Norway, people are friendly and make it easy to ask.  If you are asking for permission to park or to camp, if they cannot give you permission they will always give you an alternative, which is likely to be better.

 

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Bouyancy aids and life jackets, tools for a job

 

Service in the Royal Marines means that at sometime in your career you will wear a lifejacket and  in a variety of situations. The frequency and familiarity with this piece of equipment has allowed me to identify times on the water where in fact a life jacket is a far more appropriate piece of safety equipment.

loaded - Version 2For an open crossing four years ago it was my preferred choice considering the level of exposure  when leaving coastal shores.

I found a rather useful PDF where the UK Scout movement explain the CE and ISO standards relating to life jackets and boyancy aids.

water Safety          The later half of the document relates to Scout association rules for choice of flotation wear.

So in this document you will see  the following definition of a 50N PFD

Level 50 Buoyancy Aid
CE 50 Newton (11lbs buoyancy)
EN393 ISO 12402-5
Only suitable for competent swimmers.
Recommended for use in sheltered water where
help is close at hand.
Only provides support to conscious people who
can help themselves.
Inferior in performance to life jackets or the
previous BMIF Standard for Buoyancy aids.

This protection is quite limited, anyone who has swum ashore through 2mt surf will remember how uncomfortable that experience is.

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This clip illustrates quite clearly how difficult it can be with even a small amount of chop.

There are different types of lifejacket, crucially an Automatic inflation is not appropriate.   You must have control and choose when to inflate, that means choosing a manual inflation jacket.    This post does not advocate an either or approach, but is simply to highlight the benefits of having a range of equipment that you can select from appropriate to your intended trip.

To make an informed choice, carry out your own research there are always pros and cons, consider these carefully, best of all try them out, and practise all your safety drills.  Some you will find easier with the reduced bulk of a lifejacket, however you will loose the thermal protection offered by a PFD

Here is a rather excellent Hybrid PFD  which appears to incorporate the best of both.

My choice is a 150 N   Manual Life jacket with integral sprayhood, harness and crotch strap, using a crotch strap means wearing  it under the  spraydeck  loosing the advantages of a double waist cag …..   just another thing to consider.

Screen Shot 2013-09-04 at 08.48.13Finally a few snaps to encourage practice with the new kit, it will behave differently and you will need to change and adapt your techniques to suit

 

 

 

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Sea Kayaking in Norway

We departed for Norway on 11th July and visited during a period of fine weather that has not been witnessed in Norway for many years. The trip was almost a month long and we have close on a thousand photos.  Here is a small intro to our tour and a separate page on the Blog Menu will link to a longer article.

P1020061We took the Ferry to Kristiansand and immediately started our journey to the West coast. Our route took us North and through the mountains to our first destination Bergen
The drive North took us through beautiful scenery in fantastic weather, as the sun went down the colours were amazing.

P1020067There were plenty of places to get off the road to rest and eat. This rather idyllic spot was also host to a Scandinavian midge with teeth like vikings. We had ‘all the kit’ ‘Boots insect repellent’ cream,  a mozzy repellent spray called “OFF”  bought in Italy and of course our headnets …..  but were just a little slow deploying all the resources, a big lesson learnt.

P1020082Our journey continued, and the weather changed we soon found ourselves in thick cloud at the tops of the mountains.

P1020106We were expecting to find sunny weather again as we descended from the mountains into Bergen, but the weather just got worse pouring rain and poor visibility. We spent a day in the rain trudging round Bergen and then decided to use the wet weather to drive further North to our next stop situated on the Vilnesfjorden

GrytoyraJust a day and a half after the rain and mist of Bergen we found ourselves in brilliant  sunshine. The forecast was good and we looked forward to a good few days on the Bulandet archipelago.

P1020119At Grytoyra we find a nice harbour and a small Marina. Parking at some places in Norway can be difficult, and we found asking always was well received and with positive results. There are a few small businesses here and a request to top up our water for a three day trip was again met with a genuine willingness to help and interest in our trip

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We set out for Vearlandet the largest island in the Archipelago, where we would take lunch before continuing to Bulandet.  Above on the far left is the Bulandet archipelago and the large island more centrally to the right is  Alden.

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The two peaks of Alden give its its local name of the Horse’s Saddle, it is a great landmark at 480 meters high and can be seen for miles in all directions which makes navigation amongst the hundreds of small islands much simpler.

P1020137We pulled into a small gully at Vearlandet and tied up on a clump of rock. The tidal range here was just 80cm and of no concern at all. It meant that we never bothered hauling out the heavy loaded boats. We continued our journey to Bulandet after lunch.

BulandetThere is a right in Norway to wild camp on any unfenced land at least 200 meters from property (and for a max stay of two days) and whilst this is most generous, in the Bulandet archipelago it is very difficult to find somewhere that fits the criteria AND is also easy to land a kayak.    From a trip four years ago I knew there was a small beach with a good patch of grass for camping, with a little search on google earth we soon came across it.

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We quickly set up camp, and after supper took a walk up the local hilltop to be rewarded with a great view over the archipelago

P1020173 This first shot faces NE and overlooks our camp site located at the small left hand bay of the large lagoon. In the background is mainland Norway. Bulandet is is the most Westerly inhabited commune in Norway.

P1020174This photo looking East shows how easy it is to identify Alden, just to the right the next large island receding in the distance is Atloyna

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Despite its remote location, Bulandet is a surprisingly lively community. Still very much a thriving community of fishermen. The small private harbours and jettys accommodated all manner of boats from very traditional wood fishing boats to sleek modern cruisers. Despite the number of boats here it was never intrusive, and the waters were delightfully peaceful.

TO BE CONTINUED…

 

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Searching for the Quenouille de St Brigitte

During conversation with a friend we learnt of a menhir  that had been adopted and modified by Christians during the early 16thC.

The conversation was  however some time ago, and we only had a rough idea where it was. We decided to launch from the car park at Pont Lorois, there’s great access to the water and plenty of parking.COL_0001

and use the tide up into the upper reaches of the Ria (On a previous trip we expored the Western side of the Ria at Nostang)

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There was very little to pack, and we were soon on the water, but at low tide it means wading for the first one hundred meters to have enough water.P1010773

We made our way up the estuary heading for St Cado.  Passing the small Oyster Watchman’s house.   We could already feel the increase of the wind which was predicted to increase Bf5 +P1010784

St Cado is one of those places you will never tire of seeing.  This small island with its connecting harbour wall draws hundreds of tourists during the summer season, without doubt the best way to visit is by kayakP1010785

At higher levels of tide it can be fun paddling through the arched gates of the harbour wall against the flow of the tide, the tunnel is around one kayak length and needs a determined sprint to glide through…..  those who don’t have the speed or find the current faster than anticipated usually try to paddle only to find their paddles don’t fit under the arch ! P1010786There are always plenty of birds on the Estuary, this Egret was very happy to come quite close to us as we slowly moved through the mud banks

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there are a good number of islands that are linked at low tide by rocky causeways. Here we needed to wait just a few minutes for the tide to rise a little higher in order to allow us to crossP1010808

Along came a party of people making their way back to the mainland, they had been using one of several small fishermen’s cottages on this small chain of islandsP1010811

It was another few minutes before they arrived at the causeway and the level of water was now thigh deep with a good flow of water crossing it. I offered a hand and carried a large bag on my deck  and hung around ‘just in case’  someone needed a bit more help. All was well with everyone across, however any further delay would have needed a boat or a 12hr wait till the next low tide.

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Now we moved out into the open reaches of the Ria, we could feel the strength of the wind, the waves were mostly flattened by the wind, but every once in a while larger waves would form giving a chance to surf a little.

P1010793The weather had changed significantly in just a couple of hours, we now found ourselves paddling in a good force 5 on this open stretch, but it was easy to see the shelter offered much closer inland.

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This is the Quenouille de Sainte Brigitte, It’s located on the Isthmus of the Ile Verdun peninsular. It’s a little over 3 meters tall and has three parts, a long cylindrical block of Granite carrying a smaller block which has a cross carved out, and these a finished with a conical cap.
I am always amazed at how these very ancient stones have survived so long. Of course now these historical relics are all recorded and looked after, but this is really something quite new in their history. It leads me to believe that there were probably many more that have just been lost or innocently reused before their historical value was realised.

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Back at Pont Lorois, our starting point, the bay was filling nicely and the tidal flow into the bay gave Michelle an opportunity to practice her moving water skills.

So, probably time to ‘explain’ the word “Quenouille”

the translation I found in the dictionary is ‘Distaff’ it took me several searches to discover that this is the long spindle that ‘spinners’ use to hold the unspun fibres

 

 

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La Trinité

There is no doubt that I shall remember 2013 for its appalling weather ….  once again the bank holiday weekend arives and high winds Bf 5-6 +  showing all along the southern Brittany coast.

On these occasions it is usually easy to find some reasonably sheltered water on the Golfe du Morbihan. I have wanted to return to the Golfe at some point to visit the Tumulus on Ile Gavrinis, now the Tumulus is open to visits so a phone call was made to get us booked in, we learnt that actually it was full because this weekend it was Fete du Golfe and accordingly the whole region would be swamped by leisure boaters….  We changed our minds !

fete du GolfeThis photo by Françoise Berland shows what to expect !

We went a little further north up to  the Crac’h estuary where we would get some reasonable shelter from the westerlys. La Trinité lies in the estuary and is a popular natural port, again on a bank holiday weekend it makes no sense going to such a popular tourist destination to find parking, instead we searched the opposite side of the estuary and found easy parking next to a slip at Les Presses on the opposite side of the Estuary

P1010821Shortly after launching we crossed the main channel to witness a ‘near miss’ between two sailing craft, there was plenty of shouting probably translating as ‘ I say old boy, you need to revise your Col Regs’

This weekend was the ‘Armen’ race, some of the boats were already in La Trinité so we decided to pop in and take a look.

P1010825This Trimarin, is quite an amazing boat, have a look at the video for some footage taken during the race.

Close up on the water shows the incredible form of the hulls

P1010828P1010823The seafront at La Trinité  was looking great, but as predicted very busy

 

P1010832 We continued up the estuary passing under the road bridge, the waterway here becomes immediately quieter, but does look a little industrial. On both sides of the bridge are stocks of rusty iron frames used to carry the oyster sacks .

P1010857 - Version 2Further paddling takes you into the more usual environment of mud flats and marsh, there are always old hulks left slowly decaying in the water, which in a strange way look quite attractive as they they slowly blend into the landscape.

P1010855When we approached this boat we could hear water noisily filling a compartment inside, it really sounded like a large tap running, which seemed rather strange in this abandoned boat, but it was of course the rising tide breaching some internal bulkhead.

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Tidal mills were an important feature along these waterways, many have been restored to full working order while others have been turned into a variety of different types of accommodation, sadly others have become derelict.

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On the upper reaches of the estuary we came across this rather ancient cross, it is located in a most remote spot likely to be on the property of the Chateau du Kervihan, getting out to take a closer look was not so easy … P1010845Mud is mud wherever you go !  but here we found a thin layer a brown mud  which lay over a deep thick heavy black mud that stunk !   Thankfully just a few meters to cover with some rocks on the way

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It was soon time to turn with the tide and return back to our start point, the sky had clouded over some and the wind increased, but as always it was good to be on the water and we both enjoyed our trip.  On reaching the slip we found a large queue of ribs and small cruisers lined up waiting for their turn ……..  one of the great joys of kayaking is being able to slip in when we want without obstructing anyone.

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